K-Beauty (Korean Beauty) has transformed skincare routines worldwide. From the 2010s and BB creams to more recent years - the glass skin phenomenon, its influence is everywhere. But what’s fact, what’s hype, and what can we actually learn from the world’s most innovative beauty culture? I’ve been rather obsessed with East Asian beauty since working on beauty counters in the late 90s where I first discovered Japanese skincare (Kanebo - not in the U.K anymore) and SK-II (drowning my 18 year old skin in Pitera essence - what was I thinking?). In this ‘article’ (is it obvious I always dreamed of being a beauty editor?) I dive beneath the surface, exploring the why and the how behind the K-Beauty phenomenon.
Some of my brilliant beauty expert besties (and buyers) weigh in on what sets K-Beauty apart, is it the relentless innovation? ingredient transparency? Results over marketing spin? Let’s find out!
“TikTok has been a key driver, with searches for “Korean skin care” rising 168% year-over-year in 2024 and 180% in 2023. Six of the top ten skincare brands by TikTok view growth are K-Beauty brands.” - Cosmetics Design
"Korean beauty is affordable and offers highly effective solutions.” - Lillie Ellis, Buying Director
K-Beauty holds a significant share of the global beauty market, and perhaps surprisingly (or maybe not?, South Korea is now the world’s second-largest cosmetics manufacturer after France. Renowned for its results-driven products, proven efficacy, accessible pricing, natural ingredients, and trend-setting innovation, K-Beauty continues to set the standard in the industry.
“In 2023 alone, South Korea exported around $7.2 billion worth of cosmetics, making up 9.8% of the global total. And it’s not slowing down—the Beauty & Personal Care market in South Korea is set to grow by 2.24% annually from 2024 to 2029. The biggest chunk of this market? Skincare, which is expected to hit a whopping $9.24 billion in 2024.” -
https://zignify.net/
The South Korean economy focuses on exports, due to limited national resources, and therefore the growth of the economy relies on exports (the beauty market in South Korea is also incredibly saturated), and to rely on other countries wanting what you’ve got, you need to be more innovative than anywhere else in the world (so your country continues to make money duh). Their advanced manufacturing capabilities develop, and produce cutting edge skincare and beauty products (and ingredients) such as Snail Mucin, Centella and Ginseng, BB Creams, sheet masks and…barrier repair!
Thing is, South Korea isn’t only at the forefront of innovation in beauty products, but also one of the most advanced in cosmetic treatments too (think Cryotherapy facials, ‘face shrinking’, Salmon DNA et al), making it a popular destination for cosmetic treatments (aka medical tourism).
“Growing demand for cosmetic, fertility, and affordable treatments to push South Korea’s medical tourism market to USD 3.1B by 2033.” -https://www.businessheraldonline.com/
Amy Chang, kindly shared her experience, with no gatekeeping on what exactly she had done and a full breakdown of costs (sharing screenshots, should you be fortunate to be able to make the trip).
Why is K-Beauty SO good?
You know the age old saying ‘Prevention is better than cure’? Well, that’s the East Asian approach to beauty and skincare, taking care of your skin/health through preventative routines (about to digress, but this is why I also fell in love and studied Classical Pilates - it’s not just a workout, it’s preventative exercise through flow and movement of the body and mind).
Back to skincare - skincare concerns on most sites are usually reactive concerns (blemishes, wrinkles etc), K-Beauty stands out for its preventive approach, focusing on gentle, hydrating ingredients like Snail mucin, Centella, fermented extracts and Ginseng. Then, there’s the formulation, K-Beauty sunscreens are exceptional. One of my top recommendations (as recommended to me by Dr Whitney Bowe over a year ago, is Beauty of Joseon for its skincare-first feel, lightweight texture, and affordable price, making daily SPF use effortless, and enjoyable!
“If you're just getting into Korean beauty, here are 3 need-to-know brands that are loved for their quality, innovation, and efficacy. Focusing on all things skin barrier repair, Biodance has a range of gentle products perfect for supporting skin barrier while enhancing your skin's natural glow. Their hero Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask contains probiotics, collagen and hyaluronic acid and is perfect for improving dull skin and increasing skin elasticity. Focused on natural ingredients sourced from Korea’s Jeju Island, Innisfree is eco-conscious and beginner-friendly K beauty brand. Their hero products include the green tea HA cream and volcanic pore clay mask, perfect for all skin types, especially those who enjoy natural ingredients. Finally, Skin1004 is known for its focus on natural, gentle ingredients, especially their hero ingredient, Madagascar Centella Asiatica extract, which is famous for soothing and healing irritated skin and can be found in their core products the Madagascar Centella Ampoule and Centella Toner.” Sophie Gosnay – Skincare Buyer, LOOKFANTASTIC
K-Beauty Must-Haves I Buy on Repeat
Medicube Collagen Night Wrapping Mask
Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Moist Sun Serum
Beyond the Hype, what’s next?
“We're noticing a growing embrace of the soft Korean-style makeup look, which aligns closely with the clean girl aesthetic popular in the West." - Lillie Ellis, Buying Director
Korean beauty is more than a trend—it’s at the cutting edge of innovation, leading in R&D with the most luxurious formulas and fun formats, with rituals routed in proven traditions - the long-game of skincare from gentle cleansing, religiously using SPF, hydration and barrier protection. I see these pillars as the foundation of K-Beauty and I think what’s next is more innovation in formats, textures and playful products.
“Korean skincare focuses on traditional ingredients alongside cutting edge science. A gentle yet effective approach to skin care and skin health, with most Korean skincare focusing on the skin barrier and hydration.” Lauren Starkey – Skincare and Body, Senior Buyer
Whether you’re a minimalist or a maximalist, there is truly something for everyone in K-Beauty, and finding what works for you, not just what’s trending, oh and… hydrated skin is here to stay.
What’s your K-Beauty story?